New Orleans

NEW ORLEANS, AT LAST!

Marina at Ponchartrain Landing RV Park

pool at Ponchartrain Landing

We finally made it to New Orleans!  Arrived Oct 24 and left today, Nov 4. 

Street in French Quarter
under repair getting ready
for SuperBowl!

We were very apprehensive when we followed Navigation System's directions off the freeway and it appeared to go nowhere fit for an RV.  Well, a friendly semitruck driver stopped and gave us directions.  We were going the right direction, just rough roads and not very nice area getting off the interstate.  Once we got to the iron security gate at the park and got checked in, we were very impressed.  Pool, hot tub, neither in use right now due to weather :-( , a marina, and very nice RV sites in well-maintained park.  Music in their open-air bar several nights a week, which we could hear well from our site!  They had a shuttle into New Orleans city for $5 pp/day, and after 3 days rides were free!  The shuttle took different routes many days due to road construction so we got to see lots of side streets.  The effects of Katrina and Isaac were evident and pretty horendous. This RV park was completely wiped out and completely rebuilt after Katrina.   Downtown in French Quarter, every street is under repair and closed off in many areas as they are "prettying up the town" in preparation for hosting the SuperBowl. 
 
First day, we took the shuttle at 4pm into town as there was a free concert in Lafayette park.  We met our friend, Mark Parker, there and enjoyed listening to the music and visiting with him.  He put our minds to ease by telling us the city is safe as long as you stay in the boundaries of the popular sites, and we did that and had a ball.  Weather was in the 80's each day except for first Saturday when the wind blew and it was cold!  This morning as we left the park, the wind came up strong and it rained hard for about 15 minutes.  Since then it has been nice again, although today it may have only reached 70.

2nd day, we took 10am shuttle to French Quarter, the cultural epicenter full of historic landmarks, colorful architecture, bustling bars and live music venues .  Had great lunch at Pat O'Brien's restaurant.  I had a wonderful salad while Al tried a  sandwich,called a Muffaletta. ... Huge, expensive balogna and cheese sandwich) and he enjoyed it!   Interesting how they have renovated the 1st floors of the buildings, but you can look up and see the upper floors in disrepair.  There is construction going on everywhere.  Locals told us the workers are those from other states to work, as the people who live here won't take labor jobs as they can make more from government subsidies and not have to work!!!  The French Quarter did not flood, but outside that area are homes barely standing.  Many have been redone, many not.  Behind the ugly unrefurbished store fronts are locked gates leading to beautiful courtyards leading to luxury apartments.  Never know from the street!

Day 3, we took the afternoon shuttle to town and met Mark, and we went to Drago's for dinner (at Harrah's).  Great food, and Al tried and enjoyed some of Mark's oysters, which he normally doesn't like!  I abstained from trying them, as usual.  :-).  Walked around the city with Mark and he pointed out landmarks, etc.

Dinner at Drago's with Mark Parker



Joe and his co-workers at Camillia Cafe
put on quite a show and kept us entertained
serving up great simple food.

This gal should be on stage!  WOW! her
bow was moving so fast it could have cut
the strings!!!

Drum was suitcase/chair; played with
right foot.  left foot played tambourine
and bell, while he played guitar and sang!

2nd Line Band after a wedding

Camillia Cafe

Day 4, Saturday, we met Mark and walked and walked and walked!  This was the cold and windy day, and we were all freezing so we walked briskly.  Found the quaint, old-fashioned Camillia Cafe', and I had my first gumbo (sausage, chicken, etc soup with rice), while the guys ate huge meals followed by homemade apple pie alamode.  Pie was heated on the grill!  The crust was light, flaky and delicious!  (I had to eat some of the crust!).  Our waiter was worth the price of a show!  He and the others joked and sang and put on quite an act keeping us all entertained during our meal.  Walking around the French Quarter, we came upon several really great groups of musicians!  Some we could have watched for hours!  There were horse-drawn carriages, pedi-cabs, and artists at work all around Jackson Square.  There was a Voodoo festival in town, so there were many costumes and acts along the streets!  And Royal Street was lined with art galleries.  So many beautiful, original artwork.  We broke down and bought a small print to brighten up the RV.  One artist did body art.  The background painted first, then he put a model in place and painted the body to be part of the work.  Awesome! We got to experience a 2nd Line Parade, which is really a roving dance party with brass band, and this one was a wedding party, complete with waiters serving h'ordeurves along the route.  The cemetaries here are above ground tombs due to the floods.

Inside St Louis Cathedral



This clarinetist/soloist was so good on the street,
we bought one of her albums!

French Quarter apts above street level

St Louis Cathedral at
 French Quarter

Original hitching posts
in French Quarter

Sunday, day 5, we decided to stay in and do laundry, rest, etc.  Watched a video at the RV Park office on Hurricane Katrina which really makes us grateful we were not involved!  So sad to see so much loss and devastation.  It was a very well-done film.

Monday, we went again on the shuttle and walked around the city.  Tuesday, went to the World War II Museum.  3 Floors of exhibits, videos, and history, including boats, planes, tanks, and personal accounts by veterans that had been there.  We met a veteran there who had been there on the invasion upon one of the beaches.  Very well done, and we both learned things we didn't know or had forgotten.  One interesting thing was the British stormed the beaches carrying their rifles and their bicycles!   We chose to go to the Tom Hanks movie ,"Beyond All Boundaries", (part of the museum)
a 4D production, meant to experience the war as if you were there.  It was very well done, with smoke smell in the air, seats shaking with the roar of the tanks and choppers, Bombs blasting and Lights flashing.  Too much reality for both of us, and Al says he would not have chosen to go if he had known how real it would be, as it took him back to his war memories.

 Wednesday was Halloween and we took the afternoon shuttle and met Mark for dinner again.  This time at Amano's, a very nice, elegant meal and great company!  Then Al and I went back to the French Quarter to Bourbon Street, to watch all the costumed people!  Quite a show!!!  People everywhere!  So fun to watch!  Shuttle doesn't run after 8, so we took a cab back.  Mr. David, the cabbie, tried to sell us on Ganoderma coffee all the way back, but he was interesting.  2nd night, he gave us each a sample pack, I tried mine next morning, but didn't see any results.  Gano is supposed to be ancient chinese herb good for a lot of ailments.

Nov.  1, All Saints' Day
Al asked if they were left over
from last night!   : -)

"I was framed"

Bronze band at Armstrong Park

Entrance to park

Thursday, took the shuttle again.  This time there was another free concert in Louis Armstrong Park, so we went there and strolled around.  Very nice park with monuments and fountains .Then we sat and listened for awhile.  Walked to French Quarter again, and had dinner at Pat O'Brien's, then caught the 8pm show at Preservation Hall.  This is one of the few places where you can go listen to bands without being in a bar.  This night was a Tornado (or was it Tsunami) Brass Band, with Tuba, Trombone, Trumpet, Sax, Bass Drum and Snare Drummer.  They played and sang well.  Very small, old venue, seats not raised, and by the time we got in, there was standing room only and couldn't see a thing.  So, we went out in the hallway and looked in the door by the stage so we could at least see the band.  Great music, just wish venue were better.  They have sell-out crowds 3 shows a night, though, so guess they don't need to improve.  $15 each for 40 minute show.  Wouldn't do that again!  Good music on the streets for free..... And you can see them!

Halloween decorations

Fountain at Riverwalk

Algiers Ferry.  Passengers free!
Cars free outbound, $1 inbound!

Old Blue DeSoto matches old blue house at
Algiers Point

Friday, took the shuttle, then took free 10-minute ferry ride to Algiers Point.  This is mostly an older residential area with a few businesses.  Beautiful old homes, some of which are being restored.  Then back to Mainland and walked the shops at the Riverfront until the 4pm shuttle back.   We have walked miles each day this week, and our legs must be getting in shape as mine especially are tired! 

Saturday, we stayed in, cleaned and did laundry again getting ready to head out.  Today, we are "camped" at Hammond Wal-Mart as we will go to the RV place in the morning to hopefully get our jacks working again.  From here????  Who knows!  We will look at the map tomorrow and decide.  The kitties are having trouble adjusting to daylight savings time.  They always get treats at 10pm, and they start begging at 9, now!  Amazing how they know when it is time!  Also get us up on old time as well.  Ugh!

One thing we did not get to experience at New Orleans was their trolley system.  There are 3 lines, and by transferring from one to another, can pretty much tour the entire town.  Unfortunately, they were not running due to all the road construction.  They were running busses on the lines, but somehow it just didn't seem like the same enchantment. 
Oh, well,all is well here.  Hope it is there as well.
Sylvia & Al 


 

Memphis to Grand Isle, Louisiana

Pat Jones

"Diddley-Bo" or "Jitterbug"
Many blues musicians got their start playing one,
 including
Muddy Waters!

From Southaven (Memphis), we spent a couple nights dry-camping at Casinos and Wal-Marts along the way (still don't like to travel long days!!!) and stopped for a week in Vicksburg, MS, where we parked at an Elks Club.  Had our own little space no one could see unless they drove behind the pool building :-).  Along the route, we tried to pull into a Blues Museum along Hwy 61, but came upon a railroad trestle to go under, and it was too low.  Got directions another way, but in a BAD area and no good place to park, so Al did some creative turning around and we headed back to the Hwy.  We went to the Leland Blues Museum and spent a couple hours.  A local, well-known blues artist was there, playing and singing.  Pat Jones.  His father was really well-known, we read.  It was nice to have live music, since we were the only ones there. 

     Kitties had picked up fleas someplace, even with their monthly application of Frontline.  We tried flea powder (which was nasty and didn't seem to help), then took them to vet for flea baths.  They came back smelling good and not scratching!!!  While they were out, we set off flea bomb in the RV and vacuumed good.  We also started them on a monthly pill called Comfortis which is supposed to be much more effective than the topical Frontline.  Will see! 

Castor oil pump from old drug
store, circa 1800

     We found the very 1st Stein Mart store in Greenville, MS.  We LOVE Stein Marts!  They were having a huge clearance sale, plus they had a back room where everything was $3.  Al got several really nice shirts, and I got a few tops plus a couple things on regular sale from out front.  That was fun, but dangerous for compulsive shoppers.  Only salvation is we don't have a lot of room in the RV! 

Part of the pharmaceutical display in Old Drug
Store in Vicksburg

More from the drug store display

How'd ya like to bathe yourself and all your kids on one of these?

     Vicksburg is quite an interesting little town.  We went to the Coca-Cola Museum where it was first bottled, to an old drug store where the owner has displayed his personal collection or old-time pharmaceutical supplies and equipment.  Then to their old Court House Museum (9 rooms full of civil war stuff and President Davis's information, weapons, costumes, uniforms, furniture, ships, etc. Old Record storage at the court house below.  After I took these 2 shots, was told I wasn't  supposed to be back there.  Oh, well, I found it quite interesting before I had to leave!





Sitz-bath?

Court room in old Court House

cotton steamer

Some of dolls in museum

Next day took a  tour through the Corps of Engineers Lower Mississippi Museum which was free!  Quite new and very well done of life on and around the river.  There was the old Mississippi IV which was a part of it, but was closed for maintenance.  It was a working tugboat but also served as the flagship for the Mississippi River commission.  The doll and toy museum (mostly dolls) was small, but packed full of  about 1000 dolls and a few toys! Many from other countries and very interesting to me.  Al was a good sport!

     Took 16 mile driving tour through the National Military Park which was a detailed account of the 47 day seige between the Union and Confederate armies.  If we had stopped and read every marker, we would STILL be there! 

Marble floor inside this 1800's monument
at Nat. Millitary Park

Betlinsky House in Vicksburg

Vicksburg court House Museum at Night

     Went to lunch at Anchucka Mansion (great food!) and got free tour of the mansion after!  Then went through the Betlinski House.  Both magnificent homes.  Amazing what luxury they had even then! 
     That evening, went back into town for an Art party at a gallery.  The owners have fixed up the upstairs of the old building above their shop as their home, and invited the community for h'ordeurves and wine.  It was interesting how they fixed it up, and lots of people there.  After, we drove by the Old Court House again, as we heard they light it in blue at night.  It was very impressive!
     GRRRR!!!  Picture placement problems again!   Photo of puppets  (below) was from the doll museum.  Flat wooden boat was in Mississippi River museum.  This type of boat was built for a one-way trip to transport goods, then the boat was dismantled and the lumber was used to build down-river.  



One of biggest monuments in the
National Military Park

Cotton Fields along the highway

     Leaving Vicksburg, we drove further on the Natchez Parkway.  Very pretty, peaceful 2-lane drive.  Parked at Natchez State park, and were surprised to learn they allow bow hunting in their park.  We didn't venture into the forest!  Lots of bugs!  Drove around looking for different park for another night or 2, and decided there wasn't much to see  except we did stop and tour the LongWood mansion.  It is the largest octagonal house in America, begun in 1860 for wealthy cotton planter and his family.  They only finished the outside and the interior of the basement (which was meant to be slave quarters)when the war began and the workers fled.  Local workers completed the basement level for his family of 8 living children (out of 11), then owner died in 1864 and the rest of the mansion was never completed.  His wife continued to live there with all the children.  There was an agreement by the family to never finish it as a poignant reminder of past glories and tragedies. 

Cypress (?) trees in swamp.  Once the
watersrise, the trunk swells,
and stunts their growth.

Cajun Swamp

     From there, we stopped at Moranza, then Breaux Bridge which is not far from Lafayette, LA.  Met the neighbors there, and they invited us to go with them on a 2-hr Cajun Swamp Tour.  That was interesting and relaxing.  Saw LOTS of blue and grey heron, White Egrets, etc., and 2 alligators.  Learned about the trees in the water.  They originally grow on land, then when flooded, their trunk base swells and it stunts their growth.  He told us the baby blue herons are born white, but they have green legs and feet to distinguish them from the white baby Egrets.  He was a walking encyclopedia of the swamp and its inhabitants.


Imagine baking in this oven!

      Next day went to Vermillionville, in Lafayette.  It is an attraction of itself.  Had lunch in their Cajun restaurant.  Al ordered their special plate, which had a LOT of food, and ALL of it, including the fresh corn was covered in sugar!!! So much sugar!  Then he couldn't decide which of the 2 included desserts to choose, so the waitress said she'd bring a little of each.  She brought 2 whole desserts!  Bread pudding with a carmel sauce, and a lemon cake.  We had to try a little of each, and they were good, but OH SO SWEET!  The only "safe" food I could find was a baked potato (HUGE) topped with crawfish ettouffee (Sp?).  Also had my first Cajun Gumbo.  Was pretty good!  

When a daughter was of age to be courted, father
 painted the chimney white to let the boys know

Wash clothes with one of these?

     After lunch, we toured the grounds, meeting interesting people in the living museum.  One fellow explained how their homes were built of clay and horsehair stones.  Also  used this as insulation in between their walls.  He was very knowledgeable and fun to listen to !  The chimneys were built in such a way so if there were a chimney fire, they simply knocked the chimney down, away from their home.  Hopefully, this happened at the end of the cold season!!!



Couldn't find out what made these holes on  the beach. 

One of the demolished homes along the bayou

This sign was for Theriot for Judge. 
Judge The Riot?  Poor guy!  What a name

Moved on and stayed one night at Houma, then found Grand Isle State Park.  The very south-eastern tip of Lousiana surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico.  So, here we are!  Still trying to get to New Orleans!   The jack leveling system seems to have a short.  Works sometimes, but only after it cools off for awhile, so can't level when we first park!  That may be in Hammond, LA and we'll do that either before or after New Orleans!  Probably moving on to one of those places in the morning.  Devastation from storms was very obvious driving along the Bayou towards Grand Isle.  Home after home showed damage and/or being elevated.  Many were just boarded up and abandoned. or lived in as -is.  Pretty sad.  People we talked to at Grand Isle had a summer home there, and just rebuild every time it happens!   Can't imagine living like that, knowing it will happen again and not knowing when!

People build High up, then rebuild after every storm!

Sunset



Sunset at Grand Isle, LA



On Beach at Grand Isles State Park, LA

Sunrise next morning, Grand Isles

From bridge to Grand Isles, LA

From here, on to Hammond, LA to an RV repair to have the leveling jacks system checked out, as it quit working.  Have to do without it til we get it fixed.  Well, it needs a new electronics board, which needs to be ordered.  Made an appointment to get it installed Nov 5, and in the meantime, we headed to New Orleans to fill the time til then.  Hope the part is the problem when we get back!
    So,, that's all for now.  More from New Orleans on a different blog. 
     Since it's almost Halloween, found a cute article about the Mystique of Halloween to share.  It dates back to ancient Celtic festival of Samhain, and to link it to Christianity in the 8th century, Pope Gregory III designated Nov 1 as All Saints Day, a time to hallow or honor all saints and martyrs.  This holy day was incorporated into the Samhain tradition and given the name All Hallows' Eve, which eventually became halloween.  In early America, neighbors gathered to tell stories about the dead, read fortunes, dance and sing.  These rituals transposed into ghost-tellings and mischief making.   In 1846, Irish immigrants brought their tradition of dressing in costumes and going house to house to ask for money or food, which is how it all started, then evolved into parties focusing on games, foods of the season, and festive costumes.  So, that's all I read about that!  Happy Halloween!
Best to all,
Al & Sylvia

PS:  Our friend Gene sent the following  note which really made us feel better about ourselves, and hopefully it will help you, too:  "Ever walk into a room with some purpose in mind, only to completely forget what that purpose was?     Turns out, doors themselves are to blame for these strange memory lapses.  Psychologists at the University of Notre Dame, have discovered that passing through a doorway triggers what is known as an event boundary in the mind, separating one set of thoughts and memories from the next.     Your brain files away the thoughts you had in the previous room and prepares a blank slate for the new local."   It's not aging...it's that door!  Whew!!!